*If my slightly OCD formula for making fitted mitts is too much trouble, you can always knit a ribbed cuff, then make an increase every few rows to add width, then taper back down to the original cuff width and rib the last inch.
You’ll still have to do a thumb, but not nearly so much math.
A few days ago, I posted this image of my last mitts, and the next few lines of text in a Facebook status update — and somebody (Hi Trice!) asked for my mitts pattern. So here it is!
Long ago, I took lessons and learned to knit so I could make my own fingerless gloves. Over the years, I made several dozen pairs of gloves (and lots of other things like sweaters, wraps, etc) —
Then about 6 years ago, I had to stop knitting because the connective tissue in my thumb joints was shredding.
I gave away most of my yarn stash.
And most everything I made has long since worn out and gone the way of the rag pile.
But I still have (or had) about 10 pairs of mitts that I’ve worn and worn and worn…
And they were all in a little bag together.
And I think it got hauled to the garbage bin by accident.
And now my hands are cold (which makes my thumbs hurt worse) — and I have 2 mitts left, that don’t match. One is from a commercially made pair I got from Amazon, — and one of them is the first one I made and its about 1/2″ too small around and is too tight to wear for long at a time.
This is very frustrating.
This page of instructions is for a nicely fitted glove. My favorite kind. My favorite knitting project — even more favorite than socks!
Hands are different. Not just little kids’ hands vs mens’ hands vs womens’ hands. But other hands, too. As different as shoe sizes. And gloves are no more one-size-fits-all than shoes (or socks) are. Commercial companies pick the middle of the range, or the most common size — but that leaves a lot of people with gloves that are too short, too narrow, too wide — you get the idea.
This is less true in mittens or fingerless mitts, but it’s still true.
So here’s the formula for fingerless mitts that fit, plus notes on where to make changes to get a variety of styles.
- Natural fiber yarn.
thinner yarn will make thinner gloves, but more stitches/time to make. Thick yarns are faster to knit, but offer fewer opportunities for fancy stitches. Thick yarns are better for really cold weather uses like skiing or hiking. Single strand yarn, or a twist works better than a “furry” yarn like mohair.
Wool and alpaca are stretchier than cotton or silk and so will give a little. Washable wool won’t felt and shrink like natural and untreated wool, and can be washed in the washing machine — which with gloves (and socks) may be useful. Wool, cashmere, and alpaca are warm. Cotton, linen, and silk are cooler.
[Don’t knit with synthetic yarns unless you want synthetic gloves. They are never as warm, breathable, or comfortable. If you want plastic gloves, go to Walmart. Besides, if you’re going to go to all the effort and time to make something by hand — use the very best quality and most beautiful yarn you can afford]
- Addi brand 8″ circular needles.
When I was knitting my own mitts, I used a matched pair of Addi needles in tandem — so the gloves were more alike. I would knit 2 or 3 rows on the L-glove, then switch and do the same 2 or 3 rows on the R-glove. Back and forth until both finished at about the same time Otherwise, you forget little tweaks you make to the first by the time you get to the second — and they come out with odd differences.
- 5x cable needles of the same (or near the same) size as your circular needle(s).
These are basically very short double point needles designed to hold cable stitches when you’re making cable knits — but in this context, they are for circular knitting the thumb (or fingers if you’re making the rest of the fingers separately for fingerless gloves rather than fingerless mitts.) Before circular needles, double points were the only choice for knitting in the round — this is just a smaller version.
It is also possible to use round toothpicks for the thumbs if you’re using sock-weight yarn — but be sure to have extras on hand since they break easier. And toothpicks are too small around to use with heavier yarn.
If you ever knit clothes for dolls, these double-point cable needles will be useful in that context as well.
It’s also possible to buy a dowel rod in the width you need, then cut your own cable needles and sharpen them. And considerably cheaper. 😀
MEASUREMENTS YOU WILL NEED
- Arm circumference, X” above the smallest part of the wrist, where X is where you want the glove to begin. If you’re making longer gloves, you’ll need an extra #1 measurement (or more) to get a good tapered fit.
- Wrist circumference, at the narrowest point, usually just before the hand starts to increase
- Length of the mitt’s arm — the distance between #1 and #2.
- Hand@thumb — circumference at the widest point, usually where the thumb joins the hand.
- Length of the hand-triangle — the distance between #2 and #4.
- Hand@the flat — the circumference of the hand from the top of the thumb webbing to the base of the fingers.
- Length of the lower hand flat, from the base of the thumb at #4, to the thumb webbing. If you are holding your thumb at a 90 degree angle to the fingers in an L shape, this is the distance from the bottom of the thumb joint to the top of the joint in the crook of the L.
- Length of the upper hand flat — from top of the thumb webbing in the crook of the L, to the base of the finger webbing
- Length to the middle-finger first knuckle from it’s webbing. This is the usual length of a fingerless mitt or glove, since it allows for complete finger flexibility. But you can make the mitts as long or as short as you want (just like the #3 measurement.)
- Length from the base of the thumb joint to the middle of the first thumb knuckle.
- Circumfrance of the thumb at the first knuckle.
INCREASING AND DECREASING
You are going to knit from the arm toward the fingers. Almost everything about making these gloves is determined by calculating how many increased or decreased stitches you need to get from one circumference measuremnt to the next. Therefore, you have to know what yarn you’re using first. Then, knit a 3″ x 3″ sample using the Addi needles you’ll be using to knit. This sample will give you A) how many stitches per inch of knitting, and B) how many rows of knitting per inch of fabric length.
If I were using Lorna’s Laces washable wool sock yarn, my sample might tell me: 11 knit stitches for A); and 7 rows of knitting for B).
If I were using worsted weight wool, my sample might tell me 5 1/2 stitches for A); and 4 rows of knitting for B).
If I were using a 3-ply twist polar weight yarn, my sample might tell me 3
stitches for A); and 2.5 rows of knitting for B).
And if I knit when I’m really tense or watching a scary movie on TV, I would probably knit faster, tighter, and my calculations would fly out the window.
My own measurements for gloves are:
- 2″ This is one of the variable measurements based on preference. I arbitrarily chose 2″ for the example.
- 1.5″ Variable
- 1.5″ Variable
(This will make a long glove that is a total of 10-10.5″ long from cuff to finger-opening. A 3″ cuff, or even a 3/4″ cuff is just as acceptable. I’ve made lace-up mitts that were 3/4-length — almost to the elbow, and others so short that they just started at the [#2] wrist and finished just at the end of the [#8] flat-hand.
So, using Lorna’s Laces washable wool sock yarn — with a (#3) distance between arm [#1] and wrist [#2] of 2″:
You would cast on A) X [#1] , or 9.5 X 11 = 105 stitches (rounded up).
You would have 2″ of knitting ( [#3] length of knitted fabric between the arm and the wrist,) to decrease by A) 11 stitches. That would be B) X [#3]; or 7 X 2 = 14 rows.
Therefore, you have 14 rows of knitting to decrease your knitting from 105 stitches to 94. It doesn’t divide evenly, so you just have to decrease by 1 stitch on each of 11 rows. Spread the non-decreasing rows out so they’re not side-by-side.
And this increase/decrease method is the same for each section of the mitt.*
The big exception to round-and-round nature of knitting mitts is the thumbs.
So here’s what happens: (this is a lot like knitting a top-down crew-neck sweater on longer circular needles. –So, if you can do this — putting a thumb on a mitt — then you can put a sleeve on a sweater. It’s the same process.)
- using the example measurements above, by the time you’ve knit to the widest part of the hand, at the bottom of the thumb joint, you will be knitting [#4] of 116 stitches (10.5″ around X 11 stitches) Again, always round up.
- [#6] in this example is 9.25″ x 11 stitches, –> so 102 stitches.
- the difference between [#4] and [#6] is 116 – 102 = 14 stitches.
- [#7] is 1.25″, so B) (7 rows of knitting per inch) X 1.25″ (always round up) would be 9 rows of knitting to create the thumb.
You will use your 5 cable needles to create the thumb — 4 to hold the stitches while you finish the body of the mitt, then all 5 to knit in the round and finish the thumb at the end. If you’ve never knitted in the round using double point needles — go here to the ___ For Dummies website — it’s pretty clear and has lots of pretty pictures. It might also be useful to look at one or more of the gazillion how-to’s on Youtube. Most of these sites start by telling you how to cast on using DPNs, but you won’t be doing that since your stitches already exist in your [#4].
- You have 14 surplus stitches (the difference between [#4] and [#6]. Put half that number (7 stitches) on one cable needle (DPN #1) and the other half (7 stitches) on a second DPN (now DPN #2.).
- Your [#7] is 9 rows — and will be knit back and forth (as in non-circular knitting) with all the turn/reverseing stitches on each row being transferred to DPN #3 at one end, and DPN #4 at the other end.
- By the time you finish knitting [#7], you will have 7 stitches each on DPN #1 and DPN #2; 9 stitches each on DPN #3, and 8 stitches on DPN #4.
- This will give you a total of 31 stitches (almost 3″,) held circular, at the base of the thumb.
- Once [#7] is complete, begin knitting in-the-round again on the body of the mitt.
- After the body of the mitt is complete, come back to your 4 DPN/cable needles and calculate your knitting decreases that will get you to you [#11] circumfrance in the correct number of rows for your yarn.
That would be 1 1/2″ — 11 rows of knitting — to decrease from 31 stitches down to 2.25″ circumference, or 25 stitches. Decrease 6 stitches over 11 rows.**
**For my chubby hands and the now thickened joint at the base of my thumb, my thumb opening actually needs to be 3 full inches — so I would need to INCREASE by 2 stitches before I begin the thumb. This can be done either by a normal increases somewhere in the first circle of thumb knitting, or by knitting back-and-forth for 1 additional row on the body of the mitt, before beginning the circular knitting of the hand-flat.
Swollen knuckles require a little futzing about with the formula….
- Cast on and off using stretchy casting methods. There’s nothing worse than having the edges of gloves or socks with no give in them. (you can find illustrations and youtube videos that demonstrate stretchy casting)
- For further stretchiness and comfort, knit 1/2″ to 1″ of 4k/4p rib at the beginning of the arm [#1] and at the end [#9]. While this isn’t absolutely necessary — it is comfy, and gives a slightly more form- fitted opening to keep warmth in. You can also do this ribbing on the thumb.
- Add interesting knitting stitches or open lacework to the back of the hand for all the rows of [#8]. This will necessitate making one mitt the Left mitt, and the other the Right Mitt — so the design is only on the back of the hand. Designs in the palm of the hand are less practical.
- While I personally like a thumb-sleeve to keep my joints warm, it is also perfectly acceptable to just cast off the thumb-opeing stitches. This will give you a “sleeveless” mitt. (It will look better if you knit at least one full-circle row of the thumb opening — the stitches will be easier to cast off evenly and neatly.)
- Any time you are increasing/decreasing, try and distribute the lost or added stitches over the number of rows so there is not a dramatic jump between one row and the next.
- Similar to Tip 5, put the increase/decrease stitches at different points in each increase or decrease row. You not only don’t want dramatic row-length jumps from one row to the next, you also want to avoid having close increases or decreases vertically — directly above each other when looking row to row.
So — not side by side on a row, or up and down from row to row.
Clear as mud, right?
Or — there are lots of Youtube videos out there showing how to make gloves, mittens, fingerless gloves and fingerless mitts.
If my slightly OCD formula for making fitted mitts is too much trouble, you can always knit an 8″ ribbed cuff, then make a balloon of increases out to 10-11″, then taper back down to 8″ and rib the last inch and cast off. You’ll still have to do a thumb, but not nearly so much math.
If you do an image search on Google for “fingerless mitts” — what you’ll see is that there are as many mitts as there are mitt-knitters, lol. So — add a ruffle at the wrist, a braided cast of at the fingers, neon horizontal stripes, a Celtic knot of cable up the back, a satin-ribbon corset lace-up from top to bottom, or a faire isle row of pine trees around the flat. Pom-poms. Fringe. A crewel embroidery bouquet in the palm. Make your mitts your own.
******Let me kow if parts of this are unclear, and I’ll try and clean it up or rewrite….******